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Friday, May 2, 2014

Arches National Park 4/24 - 4/27/14

See the slideshow to the right for pictures of Arches Nat'l Park

ARCHES NATIONAL PARK
Day 1
Thurs 4/24/14
38° at 7 in Capitol Reef NP

In the Fruita campground at Captiol Reef NP, it got really cold over night.  Greg said it was 38 when he got up at 7, and it was only 43 when I dragged out of bed at 8:30.  We left the campground at 10:00 heading East to Arches National Park just outside of Moab UT.  We stopped on the way out of the park to look at some more petroglyphs.  They were along side the road and there was a nice boardwalk to use to view them.

We got to the Arches NP visitor’s center about 2pm.  We ate our lunch in the RV and hooked into the internet from the parking lot.  The campground in the park only takes reservations and it is full.  There are several BLM campgrounds in the area but all are first-come/first-serve.  We know there isn’t a chance to get a spot today at any of those.  We checked several other RV parks in the area but most were full.  We found one park 5 miles outside of town that had an overflow area with no hookups that we could get for 25.00 a night.  We booked it for one night.

After checking out the visitor center and buying a book on hikes in the park, we drove into Moab to get some groceries.   OMGosh!!!!!  It is a tourist town just like Sedona AZ.  It is crowded with traffic and pedestrians.  Lots of bistros, coffee houses, gift shops and art galleries line the main street.  There’s only one liquor store and one major grocery store.  I was amazed! 

After getting our shopping done, we headed out of town to Spanish Trails RV park.  It’s very nice park, except for the overflow parking which is in a dirt (red dirt) field.  It is located just off the main highway with lots of traffic.  BUT it has a great laundry and shower facilities and we have cell service and Wi-Fi!!!!!  We arrived and checked in at 5:30.  By 6, I had 2 loads of laundry started and Greg had gone for a run.  While the clothes were in the dryer, I took a wonderful long shower (with hair and shaving included).  I had clothes washed and dried and I was squeaky clean by the time Greg got back from his run.

We micro-waved left-over caribou stir-fry, quinoa, pasta with caribou pepperoni (all leftovers that we had frozen).  It was 8pm by the time we sat down to eat!  It was so late that I didn’t even get to use the internet or make any phone calls.  I’m hoping we’ll be as lucky in the next campsite we get.


DAY 2
Fri 4/25/14
61° @ 7am

We left the Spanish Trails RV park at 8am (we did find out that there is a classic car show in town this weekend which is why all the campgrounds are full).  We headed back toward Arches park and turned north along the Colorado River to check out all of the BLM campgrounds.  There are 7 of them along a stretch of about 8 miles.  We found that 2 of them are only for tent campers and of the 5 remaining we saw only a couple of sites that showed today was the day they were  being vacated.  Unfortunately, check out isn’t until noon and we couldn’t see that any of them were in the process of packing up.  If we had seen people milling about on the outside of the campers we could have asked them if they were leaving and if we could put our “paid stub” on the site post to show it was taken, but no-one seemed to be up or at their sites.  We did manage to talk to one camper who recommended another BLM campground West of the Arches on the way to Canyonlands NP which is relatively close by (20 miles or so).  We gave up on the search of Colorado River BLM campgrounds and drove to the other campground which is about 30 minutes from the Arches entrance.  It is Horsethief Campground and it is perfect!  We found a great spot (at 10:15), somewhat protected from the wind (it is blowing) and VERY level.  There are no hookups and once again, no cell service or internet.  The campground host saw us and talked with us for a while.  He and his wife lived in Palmer for about 20 years so he was glad to visit with some Alaskans for a change.

We drove back into Moab for gas (got a 10 cent discount using our Fred Meyer rewards card!)  We drove back into the Arches at noon to look around.  There are no significant hikes here; mostly everything is viewable from the road.  We stopped at almost all of the pullouts and did some short hikes.  The scenery is so much like the other parks, I think I am mostly interested in the arches.  We did hike for 1.5 miles to get to the “Delicate Arch” which is the most photographed arch in the park.  It was pretty amazing.  The hike to get there was pretty steep, walking on sandstone and along narrow cliffs but once you get to the arch, you’re breath is taken away.  We stayed up by the arch for at least 30 minutes just sitting there looking at it.  There were tons of people there also so lots of other stuff to watch also.  There is a 7+ mile hike that starts at a trailhead at the end of the park road which we will try to do tomorrow.  We ran out of time today.  We did hike a short way back to another arch (Sand Dune Arch) thru really thick sand and some slot canyons.  Once back to the arch it was so funny to see kids playing in the sand like a giant sandbox while parents sat relaxing (like at the beach?).  I guess the kids deserved it after being shuffled around all day looking at rocks!

We got back to our campsite at 7:05.  Greg grilled tilapia and I sautéed Sante Fe veggies and broccoli slaw, left-over Spanish rice, and baked beans.  The campground is a great place for sunsets and it looked like tonight was going to be a beauty.  We watched from the RV for a while then walked outside to get a better view.  It didn’t get as colorful as we had expected but it was still beautiful to watch. 

The temps today were in the 80’s with some wind.  Predictions for tomorrow are lots of winds and thunderstorms.


DAY 3
Sat 4/26/14

Howling winds from about 2:30 this morning kept me awake most of the night.  Greg said he only woke up for a short while at 3:30.  We got up to dark clouds and blowing winds.  We are staying put for a while to see what the weather does.

It started POURING rain about 9:00 and didn’t let up until after noon.  Greg read and I have been typing word documents of the blog entries so I only have to wait until I get internet so I can copy and paste my journals.  We did have a break in the rain about 12:30 but it started again at 1:30.  It was relentless all day.  Greg found a leak in the RV so that kept him busy tying to find where it was coming from then how to get it to stop.  I transferred some pictures to the laptop and read some of my old (already read) magazines.  It rained ALL day.  It was amazing.  There was some thunder about 5 but we couldn’t really see any lightning.  We waited for the rain to ease off before we started the grill to cook K-bobs.  About 2 minutes from when they were to be taken off the grill, the heavens unleashed more rain.  Greg had to stand in the pouring rain to finish up the grill (about 6:30).  About 7:30 the leak hadn’t stop so Greg decided to put blocks under one set of tires to raise that side of the RV up so the rain would run down the edge of the RV not right into the RV.  When we opened the privacy screen on the front windshields….there was SLEET on the windows!  By 7:30 it was 40 degrees.  The high today was only 48.  We are so lucky to be in the RV and not a tent!  Dinner tonight was caribou steak K-Bobs (marinated 24 hrs in wine, soy sauce, black pepper), sweet potatoes (nuked), spinach salad with green onions, cucumbers, grape tomatoes.  The K-bobs had poblano peppers and red onions on them.  It was terrific!  I know that I will sleep really well tonight especially if it continues to rain (I love the sound of rain on the fiberglass roof).
Grillin' in the rain
Charred but still delicious!
DAY 4
Sunday 4/27/14
34 @ 7:15 am

We woke up to bright, blue skies, with a little breeze and still cold.  It looks like a much better day than yesterday.  By 9:15 we headed back to Arches National Park to hike the 7.3 mile trail through Devil’s Garden.  We are staying at the same campground (Horsethief) for another 2 nights.  This campground is not far from the Visitors Center for Canyonland National ParkIsland of the Sky so we will check that area out tomorrow and Tuesday.  

We arrived at Devil’s Garden trailhead at 10:10 and started our hike at 10:30.  It was an easy trail for the first .5 miles, then we got into some inclines.  At about 1 mile, around Landscape Arch, the trail started going up sandstone rocks.  There was actually no trail just pulling yourself up rocks then walking on their slopes.  We had to do this several times through out the hike.  It was tough going for me!  The arches we got to see along this “trail” were:  Tunnel Arch, Pinetree Arch, Landscape Arch (the longest arch in the world at 306 feet long), Partition Arch, Navajo Arch, Black Arch, Double O Arch, and Private Arch.  It was incredible to see so many arches within 3 miles of a trail.  We hiked to the end of the trail to see a monolith (single tall spire, not an arch) called “Dark Angel”.  I believe in the end we hiked more than 7.3 miles.  We got back to the RV at the trailhead at 2:45.  It was 4+ hours with lots of stopping and taking pictures and even stopping for a short lunch break.  The weather was windy all day and cool.  I kept my bike jackey on until about 2; Greg wore his polar fleece top all day.  After the hike, we drove about 30 minutes down to the visitor’s center.  We can get internet and cell service in the parking lot so we spent about 2-1/2 hours getting emails checked and phone calls made.  We got back to the campground at 6:30.  Still windy tonight with temps predicted to be in the 30’s.  We didn’t eat supper until about 8.  We had grilled pork chops with Cajun seasonings, brown rice, stir fry veggies, & spinach salad.   The sun was setting at 8:20 and the way the clouds had formed we knew we were in for a gorgeous sun set.  It was not….. the clouds somehow dissipated and the sun just set without throwing off much of a glow.  Oh well…. Maybe tomorrow.


DAY 5
Mon 4/28/14
34 @ 8, breezy

I slept really well in my long underwear, thermal top, and fleece hat.  It is another pretty day but the dang wind is STILL blowing.  We drove up the road to Canyonlands National Park (about 5 or 6 miles away.)  The temps are in the 50’s but the wind is making it feel much colder.  After stopping at the Visitor’s Center, we first checked out Mesa Arch trailhead at 12:15.  It was a very short hike (1/2 mile?) to the arch and WOW was it spectacular with the backdrop of the canyon behind it.  The arch framed the vistas beautifully.  It was much prettier than any of the arches we saw in Arches National Park.  By looking to the north of Mesa Arch, we could see another arch called “washer woman arch” which indeed looked like a person hand-washing clothes.

At 1:15, we parked the RV at the trailhead for Alcove Springs.  We ate lunch then walked up the road a few hundred feet to an unmarked trail.  This one was “False Kiva” and you have to specifically ask a Ranger about it.  It is “word of mouth” only because they don’t want lots of tourist trampling thru the ruins yet.  We found out about it on one of our hikes in Capitol Reef.  Someone heard we were going to Arches then possibly Canyonlands and told us we had to ask about the false kiva.  We did and got directions from the Ranger.  We were told it was about a 3 mile round trip hike.  It started out on a dirt trail then soon turned into walking on sandstone rock, then climbing down sandstone, then climbing up and over sandstone.  We were scrambling over rocks to find this Kiva.  We thought we were at the end of the trail under an overhang that could have been an ancient cliff dwelling but it didn’t have any of the characteristics that the Ranger told us to look for.  Greg left me there and went on a recon mission to see if he could find another trail or maybe even THE kiva.  He came back after about 30 minutes and said we were almost to it.  He had spotted it with binoculars while he was scouting the area below him.  We had to really do more rock scrambling to get up to the Kiva.  It was not anything that was impressive although the views were tremendous and the hike to it was incredible so it was well worth the trip.  It took us from 1:50 to 4:10 to make the trip.

After the False Kiva hike (rock climb) we drove to Upheaval Dome overlook.  This was a really short hike up sandstone to an overlook onto a huge crater.  Geologist are unsure as to it’s origin but it is incredible to see.  Unfortunately it was sooooo windy that we didn’t stick around long once at the top.  We were back at the RV by 4:45

On our way out of the park, we stopped at Green River Overlook.  This part of the Park (the Island of the Sky) is a huge plateau sitting between the Colorado and Green Rivers.  The Green River Overlook looks down into the canyon where the Green River flows.  It was very cool to see way down below to the river and where it winds it’s way through the canyon.  It meets up with the Colorado river not too far from this location.

The scenery for this whole section of the park is so much like the Grand Canyon.  It is breath-taking to see the expanse of the canyon valleys below the rim.

We left the park around 5:15 and drove a short distance to a parking space along the road.  We could get internet here so we did some checking for places to go next and where to stay.  The weather is not looking good for elsewhere in the park and even further to the NE.  We decided to spend the night tomorrow in Moab at an RV park with power and where we can dump our tanks and get fresh water.  On Wednesday, we’ll start our drive to Salt Lake City.  We had to drive 14 more miles to get cell service so we could make some phone calls so by the time we made it back to camp it was 7:30.  We did quick hamburgers on the grill and heated up left over baked sweet potato for dinner.  Another cold night ahead of us and we’re hoping the winds will die down.
view of Park Avenue at Arches
arches and caves at Arches
Landscape Arch
the longest arch in the world
Delicate Arch, the most
photographed arch in the US

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